Chellah is the site of a ruined city from the time of the Phoenicians, that sits on a vegetated hill on the edge of the Moroccan capital Rabat. It takes less than an hour to explore this archaeological site, but a visit to Chellah gives you a great insight into the multi-layered history of the Middle East.
While the Phoenicians first settled this hill above the river as Shalat, the Romans took control of it almost 2,000 years ago to make it part of ancient Mauretania. They named it “Sala Colonia.” The Sunni Muslim Marīnids turned it into a fortified “chellah” (necropolis) in the 13th century, as commissioned by sultan Abu Al Hassan Ali. The royal tombs were then used by the Almohad Caliphate, a Berber Muslim movement in Morocco.
To take in the scale of the complex, head to the viewing platform along the path leading down from the main gates. Enjoy the tranquility as you walk around the ruined city of Sala. Storks can often be seen nesting on top of the minaret and cats roam around the ruins.
Check out the ancient pillars with their Latin script and Roman numerals. Also don’t miss the crumbling rooms that used to be a Roman “spa” with a gym and cold and warm room which were used to benefit blood circulation.
Apart from the ruins of the ancient mosque, with a still-standing tiled minaret, you can also view remnants of the royal tombs, including those of Abu Al Hassan and his wife. Continue downhill from there to find some shade along a scenic nature trail. A special feature here is the “Bassin aux Anguilles,” an eel pond. You may spot a local woman feeding boiled eggs to the eels, believing it helps her with child bearing.
If you happen to be in Morocco in September, come to Chellah for the 5-day Jazz au Chellah festival for a unique, festive experience.
Located within the city limits of Rabat, on the southern end of the Bou Regreg estuary, Chellah is not far from the medina, the Hassan Tower and the Kasbah, among other major attractions. It’s easiest to travel here on a tour or by taxi. There is a fee to access the site.
